From east to west.

There was actually a final little leg in my tour around Japan during the week of holidays I took before coming home. I had a lovely bike ride around a very cool temple town called Kamakura, and saw the final of the three great sitting Buddha statues (大仏). I'll put up some nice pictures in this post so you can have a look. It was a great end to the trip, I saw some sights in Kamakura that I'd been meaning to see for a while and also hooked up with some other old friends who'd moved out to Kanto, I was so grateful to see them one last time.

What I really want to write here is that, well I'm home. I got back about two months ago and well, yeah that is about it. Nothing really earth shattering has happened and all the stuff people told me about coming back has pretty much turned out to be true.

It's been good to meet up with my old mates of course, but I really am missing all the good friends I made back in Japan. I think I left the country in part to get away from the Identity that I had built up around me in the UK. This is going to sound weird, but I didn't feel like me for about 1 or 2 years before leaving. Well I think I found myself, or someone, and I definitely feel richer for it.

Being in Japan taught me a lot of things I didn't know about myself, science, and the world in general. So if you don't mind I'll indulge myself and list them:

1. I love being around people but my god it drains me. I think I've always been more introverted than I let on. My close friends in the UK are quite intense and present, and I love them for it. Sadly thought sometimes in social situations I had just had to shout louder or not be heard. Being stuck up a mountain gave me a lot of time to chill by myself and I found in doing that I could enjoy my time with people even more.

2. I really can achieve stuff if i dedicate myself to it. During my time I picked up, amongst other things: another language, programming, accelerator physics and basic optics, SAXS, snowboarding, some electronics, basic graphic design. My skill sets have increased quite a bit and I'm infinitely grateful for it. I do need to apply myself more still, but I have more confident that I can achieve.

3. Hard work does pay off, even if it really takes a lot of time. Something I learnt from my boss "If you want something hard enough you can make it happen, but it will take a lot of effort".

4. I'm a lot smarter than I think, but not smart enough, but noone really is so it's best to keep learning.

5. Knowing when to take a step back. I have a tendency to do too much, I really do enjoy being active. Sadly my body doesn't always agree but I'm coming to terms with it and just making the time to chill.

6. Food just isn't that scary. Allergies make food pesky, but I make it an issue, sometimes I just need to consider other people and let things go.

7. I really hate disappointing people, it is my biggest fear. I think I run away from a lot of social situations and responsibility because of it. I'm 25 now, I think I'm old enough to get over myself and just accept that sometimes people get hurt or put out because of my actions, regardless of intention. So long as I'm sincerely sorry for that it should be fine, and if not they probably aren't the kind of person worth worrying about.

I could go on I'm sure, but I won't. I've been asked a lot if I miss it out there. I could easily answer yes, though honestly I miss the people more than the country. There is a lot right about Japan but there is also a lot wrong too. I think I got sucked a bit too into the negative and I should try and be more positive when people ask about it. I didn't have the best experience, I wasn't in a sugar coated bubble, but I think it was fuller for that reason. I'm happy I left when I did as some things were starting to make me bitter, something I would have hated to become.

Ultimately I was out there to study. I'd like to think that I did enough work to get my PhD and I should really start writing up soon. I'm still throwing myself at work though and trying to squeeze out some more results. I guess you can take the the man out of Japan but not the Japan out of the man. That or I'm just trying to escape the feelings of loss and reverse culture shock, probably the latter. Either way the whole experience did disillusion me with the scientific process. I'm going to need think long and hard about my next move.

I guess this was a long winded way to say that I am going to retire from this blog. It has served its purpose, fulfilled its mission statement if you will. I've enjoyed writing and growing and I'm glad some of you came along for the ride. I'm going to keep it back just so I can look back on the memories and the great times I had.

This is of course not the end though. I'm sure I'll be writing something again soon, I need an outlet for my musings. However, for the time being the monkey is hanging up his travelling cloak and putting his walking staff to one side. It was a phenomenal 2 and a half years. Truly life changing. I'm grateful for the places I've been, the things I've done, the sounds I've heard, but most importantly the people I met. You are now a little part of me, maybe more than a little actually, so don't forget about me ね。

Well I guess this is it, Sayonara Japan, I'm sure we'll see each other again.

Sayonara Sojourns Pt. 3 Seeing Sendai

So after a rather epic 7 hours of trains, chatting with old geezers, helping a young lady break open a hard boiled egg to discover she spoke almost perfect english, and generally just lolling my way up the country, I finally arrived in Sendai. My initial impression? I was really taken aback by just how lively the place is. I guess it had been over two years since the earthquake and tsunami at that point, and the city is a good distance from the coast, so maybe I should have been less surprised.

The liveliness of course totally worked against my favour this time. I, fool that I am, had completely forgotten to book somewhere to stay for this leg of the journey and so laden with baggage I began a frantic search for somewhere to rest my head. Alas nearly every place I tried turned me away and at one point I thought I may have to rough it in a love hotel. 

These places, funnily enough originally established in Osaka in the 1960's, are pretty damn seedy. They were originally built to allow couples, young and old, a place of privacy away from the cramped confines of modern Japanese living. These days however, they are more likely to be patronised by Japanese Salarymen trying to escaped the cramped confines of married life. Oh and prostitutes, definitely can't forget the prostitutes.

Suffice to say I just couldn't bring myself to stay at one of these places, I'm sure they are physically very clean but I can't quite say the same for the atmosphere inside. Instead I opted for somewhere that was a little bit outside of my usual price range. I figured what the hell, the likelihood of me travelling around Japan by myself is slim for a while and also after all the money I saved with my crazy travelling I could treat myself a bit. My friend was sadly busy that evening so I just settled into my room, watched a bit of walking dead and chomped on some zunda dango. Zunda is a kind of sweet paste made from edamame that is a local speciality and is absolutely delicious. Kind of like sweet mushy peas but way tastier than that sounds.

After a well deserved nights sleep it was off to see what sights Sendai had to offer. My friend had not been in town long and was also eager to have a look about. This friend is that same one I met out in Yokohama who works in the circus. As such she is always moving about the country and, as well as just being generally great company, has lots of great stories of her travels and life in the circus.

With not much lay of the land we copped out and jumped on board Sendai's local tourism bus, the loople. It was pretty cheap for the day pass and since it stops at all of the major sights it seemed like the logical way to go. It also meant we could spend less time thinking about where and how to go to places and more time just idly chatting, which was fine by me as the main reason I'd come out this far was to make the most of the little time I had left to just hang out.

Our first touristy spot was the Zuihoden Mausoleum, the tomb of Date Masamune who was one of the most powerful feudal lords of the Edo period,so powerful in fact he earned the nickname of "The one eyed dragon (独眼竜)", pretty nails right. The most striking thing about the Mauseleum itself is the colour palette. Many vibrant reds, greens, blues and yellows adorn the intricate and it looks as though it would be more at home in a modern chinatown than an ancient Japanese tomb. The surrounding area is also very beautiful with many massive cedar trees, symbolic apparently of the Date clan's long history. Besides the tomb is a nice little museum with exhibits regarding the excavation of the site. My friend was very taken with some of the patterned ornaments and sculptures. I myself was more fascinated with some of the ancient tools, it always amazes me how little things like glasses and scissors have changed over the years.

Next we moved on to Sendai castle, or rather what was left of Sendai castle. Sadly much of it was destroyed by the Meji restoration, a large fire in the late 1800s and bombings during world war II respectively. Whilst there is not much castle action the grounds themselves are pretty impressive. Sendai castle was a Yamajiro (山城) or mountaintop castle, one of the original styles of Japanese castle. As you can imagine from the name it is built on top of a mountain, Mt. Aoba to be precise, and with that comes fantastic sweeping views over the city below. I was happy to trade a view of an ancient Japanese castle for the great views out into Sendai.

With the weather cooling down a bit, it is much milder oop north, we opted out of a bus ride back into town and instead wandered back into town in search of adventure (read lunch). I think it was in the main shopping street that I really started to see the impact of 2011. We managed to find ourself a trendy little cafe with seats next to huge windows that overlook the high street. People watching is a mutual hobby of ours and you would think that the city centre would be ideal, but the streets were barren. 

Around 16,000 people lost there lives in March 2011 and several thousand are still missing. Add to that the numbers who are missing or have been evacuated and you can see it has put a real dent into the local population. The gravitas of the situation didn't really hit me however until I saw it first hand in those empty streets however. My friend showed me some pictures taken from the town nearby where she is staying that is quite literally not there anymore. The pictures were, well I'll let you imagine their emotional impact on me. I really wish I'd got my act together and done some volunteering out there.

Ok onto happier things now. After finishing lunch and ogling a shrine that appeared as though it had had the shopping arcade built around it, we went…fabric shopping! I know nice and exciting right? Well actually I enjoyed it a whole lot more than I was expecting. My friend is very into fabric, textiles and craft working and when you are around someone that enthusiastic it is impossible to not be drawn in yourself.

Sadly following this we had to part ways as my friend was a little knackered due to her intense work schedule. It's tough being a clown. I didn't mind too much, it would of been nice to spend a bit more time together but I can totally understand just wanting time for yourself so you can just relax. I figured I could use my remaining time to head out and see the new Gibli film I'd wanted to catch before I left Japan. Sadly the nearby cinema was only showing Hollywood fare and the other cinema was too far out of town. Instead I spent the final few hours in a Starbucks catching up on emails and chatting on Facebook, almost as good right? Right?

Well that ends my Tohoku travels. I took a night bus out at around midnight. It wasn't as hellish as the usual journeys but sadly all the seats were furbished with a built in sega mega drive simulator. I quickly located Sonic and Knuckles and, as I'm sure you could guess, didn't sleep very much that night either.

Ja mata neee.

Sayonara sojourns Pt 2. Takarazuka, Trains and transits

Well part two is now upon us. After Ikumi and my hospital appointment I set out on what would be my last major adventure around Japan, as such I wished to make it a biggie. In fact my idea was to go and see all my friends who were further afield so that I could say goodbye. That decision marked the start of a large amount of travelling.

First on my list however was a trip to Takarazuka (宝塚). I'm not entirely sure of the reason but I have totally fallen in love with this area and I just knew I'd regret it if I didn't manage to visit one more time. Now whilst it is a very fancy area, home to the famous Takarazuka revue, an all female theatre troupe, and many fancy buildings and restaurants, my main goal was to go back and visit Osamu Tezuka's museum.

My previous visit had been around two years earlier and I was quite taken by it then, regardless of how little I understood of the displays. I grew up watching a lot of his anime and to be honest he is not called the "Godfather of Manga" for any trivial reasons, his stuff is highly excellent. This time, armed with a much better ability to read and comprehend the Japanese language I was even more impressed with what I saw. Judging by the displays of his primary school work the man was a genius from the very beginning. 

In addition to being able to read more there were also a few extra films on in the small theatre including a very touching piece about a very friendly Ame-furi-kozou (a kind of rain demon that wears an umbrella and looks like a small child) who just wanted some rain boots. He befriends a local boy and helps him out with three requests in exchange for his rain boots. Sadly at the last minute the boy moves away and never returns the Ame-furi-kozou's help. Once he is a fully grown man (now a granddad in fact) he suddenly remembers his promise and goes through hell and high water to get back to his countryside home and present the demon with the rain boots. It had a nice simple line style and the Japanese wasn't too difficult which was great for me.

Afterwards I moved on to Osaka to get on board a night bus bound for Tokyo. I've lost count of how many times I've used that service now, though I am now a gold member so it must have been a lot. It's uncomfortable, it's tiring, but it's just so damned cheap that I can't help myself, I am my Nan's grandson it would seem.

This time, whilst my main purpose was to visit a friend, I was also very excited to be  heading into Tohoku, the northern region of Honshu, for the first time. Since I never like to do things the easiest way I got it into my head that it would be a fantastic idea to go by local train, a journey of a whopping 7 hours. Why would I do something so crazy you ask? Same reason I do everything the way I do. It was cheap. Also I thought the scenery might be nice.

The initial departure from Shinjuku went fine, if a little bleary eyed, and I arrived in Shinigawa in good time, enough time intact to actually buy breakfast. I boarded the first local train, bound for I-can't-remember-where, to begin about two hours of sitting still. I was hoping to read a bit and just spas out from tiredness but alas no such luck. A pair of Ojisans (old japanese men) sat next to me and started nattering away, so much for peace and quiet. It wasn't till I couldn't help but laugh at one of their jokes that they clicked that I understood Japanese. After a bit of a chat we realised we were off to the same place. Well that was that, I was stuck with them for the next four hours.

For the most part they were pretty interesting but once the Sake started flowing I knew I was in trouble as the conversation began to get steadily more and more unintelligible. I'd love to say that I did the right think and stuck it out but alas I am a bad man and ditched them on the third train transfer. I was tired, hungry and in no mood to try and decipher their slurs. I stepped out a little bit before Fukushima, grabbed a bento, played a bit of UFO catcher and just generally chilled for an hour or so before getting back on board for Sendai.

I think even if you know very little about Japan you have at least heard the name Sendai before as it is the capital of Miyagi prefecture, the area that was worst effected by the great Tohoku earthquake of 2011. I have to say I knew pretty soon when I had crossed the border into Tohoku as I was suddenly surrounded by vast seas of green, boundless nature. It is such a contrast to the urban sprawl that dominates central Honshu and I think had it not of been for a combination of the quake and a busy work schedule I think I would have made the journey sooner and more frequently. 

Right that is your lot for today. Next time I'll talk about what I actually got upto in Sendai.

Mata neee

Sayonara sojourns pt 1. On board for boarding to alleviate boredom

So it has finally happened. I have made the epic several thousand mile journey all the way back home. I don't quite know how I feel about it, and I'm getting a bit fed up of being asked if I'm honest but i'll have to bear with it for a month, but for the time being I'm just a bit spaced. I'm not sure what will happen to this blog but I do know that I still have a few stories left to tell from my time in Japan so I will at least be posting those. I'm going to start off with talking about the epic journey I went on in my last few weeks.

Before that though a little bit of boasting. I am know the proud owner of a level 3 qualification in Japanese language proficiency. I'm still not sure exactly how I passed, with full marks on one of the sections. I guess as usual luck was on my side ey.

Anyway boasting aside time to tell you a bit more about my travelling. My first stop was back off to Shikoku, specifically Ikumi beach for another surf trip. I've been there a few times and I've written about it before but it is a wicked place and the people are so damn cool. In fact this time around it was even better because now I could understand and talk to everyone.

It was not the most relaxing of holidays, not that I truly expected it to be. Between the 5am starts and the 12pm finishes I came out of it exhausted. That being said it was an amazing rest for the soul. There is something very therapeutic about just sitting about waiting for a wave to come, it gave me some much needed clear thinking time so that as well as being able to have a great time with friends I was also able to think through some problems I'd been having at work.

So have I gotten any better? Well not so much though I did manage to get standing a few times, I think all of that snowboarding and skating over winter and spring paid off a little bit haha. What was heartwarming though was finally being able to talk to our hosts, good friends of my girlfriends, who run a rental shop down there, Lani house for the record if you ever need to rent gear or find out the craic whilst in Ikumi.

It had been almost two years since I'd met them. Even back then I could feel a vibe that these guys were truly excellent people and know I could one hundred percent confirm it. One comment I seem to get all the time is, "Wow your Japanese has gotten really great so fast." I haven't noticed it and I think I've still got a long way to go, but for these people I guess I have gone from not speaking a word to having ill blown conversations in the time we hadn't seen each other so I'll let them off. For me I think I was inevitably going to learn the language. I just like talking too god damn much.

Another thing this trip reminded me of, I am most definitely a sea person. Growing up so close to it and with my dad having been a lighthouse keeper in his youth I think it was inevitable. 5am may have been early but the waves were perfect and the temperature just right. It was quite nice not to have to wear wet suits and just dive right in. The sea around Ikumi, coming up from the south Pacific, is also gorgeous, albeit with a few jellyfish floating about waiting to sting the unwary. I can't think of a much better way to spend free time than lolling about on the beach with some friends, it is something I've missed being way up on the mountains.

I would have loved to stick around a bit longer, especially as there was a nationwide surf tournament about to start, but alas I had a hospital appointment to get to, as well as other people dotted around the country I needed to see. I'm going to miss all the people at Ikumi, and I do promise to get back there, or Osaka, or meet everyone somewhere else in the world (Bali? Hawaii?) to say hey once more. Well I guess that is true for everywhere I went in my last few weeks. This was definitely the start of a long period of goodbyes.

Ja mata née

Testing Testing 123

Once again I’ve been neglecting to write in this blog and I’ll be honest it is the same reason as always. I’m rapidly learning that a picture is worth a thousand words because the figures for my paper are taking for-ev-er to get right. Furthermore I was locked away in the bowels of hell (the Spring8 experimental hall I kid) for a good nine days doing crazy things with x-rays. As you can imagine not much time for anything else.

In fact there has been one more thing that has been keeping me busy the past few months. A fair while ago I had decided that my Japanese language progression was getting a bit stale and so as an incentive to do better I enrolled myself into this July’s Japanese Language Proficiency Test (JLPT). There are several levels (1-5) of difficulty with N1 being the most difficult test and N5 being the easiest. I felt that the N3 would present enough challenge without being overwhelmingly difficult given my limited time resources.

This was way back in like April however and sadly I didn’t take the studying too seriously, due to other workloads, so by the time June came around I realized I’d done almost no studying. Panic! Well actually no. Stress is nothing new to me these days and in all honesty there was nothing really riding on this exam than my own pride. I guess I should look at things more seriously than that but if I failed I failed and I was the only one to answer to.

Either way I had spent 1 or 2 hours a day practicing kanji and switched any of my personal reading to Japanese. I felt that might give me a bit of a chance on the vocabulary and read sections at least. As for the listening section? Well Kansai-ben is way more incomprehensible than standard Japanese and I’m even getting the hang of old man Japanese these days so I was confident with my listening comprehension.

On July 7^th (yup a Sunday) the big day finally arrived and I made the arduous journey to Kwansei University, Nishinomia campus where I would be sitting the exam. This meant about 3 hours of travelling by train and bus with a large number of transfers. Still I guess all the hustle and bustle distracted me from any potential exam nerves, though I’ve always been a bit zen just before exams, since there is not much you can do on the day anyway.

The University itself is one of the oldest, and richest, private universities in the area and all that money really shows. The campus is really impressive with pristine, neatly mown lawns and well refurbished beige bricked buildings I almost felt like I’d wandered into an Ivy league university.

As I arrived I started to feel the buzz of nervous tension from the other examinees waiting to enter the halls. I was like being in the final year of university all over again. I think it is fair to say that the vast majority of examinees were from south east asia and many groups of friends were huddled together chattering in their own languages. It’s times like this that it really hit’s home just how small a minority native English speakers really are in Japan. The weirdest part for me was observing friends of different nationalities talking in together in Japanese. This is of course perfectly natural but it still took me by surprise. I guess this is what it is like for none native English speakers in most corners of the globe.

The test itself wasn’t all that long, though with all the formalities it seemed to take forever. I won’t bore you with a blow by blow but I do think it went ok and my results should come in soon. To wrap up here are some of the more interesting (to me) observations I made on the day;

1.     It seems like it is natural instinct for a lot of SE Asians to give and receive items with two hands, though this observation maybe biased as we were in Japan and that is customarily how things are done here.

2.     Seating order can be confusing. The seating order in the halls went from right to left and in columns with the lowest number at the top. Felt really weird to me but hey different strokes.

3.     Japanese inefficiency is everywhere. I seriously felt the urge to get up and show the instructors how to collect in all the papers in at least a third of the time. It was nonsensically slow. Maybe I’ve just been coding too long.

   4.     Natto spaghetti is not and never will be delicious and I refuse to believe and Italian would ever honestly enjoy it. Reading paper you are a pack of lies.

   5.     A sign with a little chibi man telling people to shush is about as effective a deterrent as a feather duster for warding away lions.

   6.     A short break should be longer than 10 seconds and not contain ridiculous music.

That’s it for now.

Mata neee.

Tokyo Day 5 and 6 – Back to the future and books from the past

Wow sorry it really has been a long time since the last post in this series. Once again I’ve been getting steadily more and more busy. With publishable results comes, as one might expect, the need to publish. Most of the writing of my journal article is finished however it would seem that about 90% of the battle is getting the figures done to a reasonable standard. Anyway that’s not what I’m writing this blog for so I’m going to finally finish off this Tokyo visit series.

Now much though I do love my parents there are times when I’d like to do things at my own pace so we agreed to do a half day break from each other. With plans to meet each other later on at Roppongi hills I got myself up early to get back to Odaiba and finally visit Miraikan (未来館).  

Mirakan is the National museum of Emerging Science and Technology, the naming is a shortening of “Nihon kagaku miraikan” which is a bit of a mouthful, and houses many of the latest big developments in Japan’s research. As a member of RIKEN it would be rude of me not to go really since my organization probably contributes to some of the displays.

The first stop was the Dome theatre, a dome shaped planetarium. I have a strong sense that Japanese people have a real fascination with the stars, there are so many planetariums in this country, and you know what I’m not complaining because I love them to. This one was particularly special as it has 3D projectors and 270⁰ screen meaning you really feel like you are in amongst the stars. The best 3D I’ve ever seen hands down.

After a 20-minute movie I strolled around the exhibits. The top half of the museum is dedicated solely to real ongoing scientific research in an exhibit called explore the frontiers. It was quite nice to read about all the varied research going on across the country with nice little cornered off sections like; Our Solar System, The Universe, Life, Medicine and so on. In fact over half of the floor space was dedicated to something space related but I’m not complaining too much.

The section that impressed me most was definitely the Earth Environment space, called more specifically – Earth, Environment and Me. It showcased some of the wonderful things currently being developed right now that are moving towards making our exploits on the planet more sustainable. The exhibits were colorful and well laid out, god bless the Japanese propensity to the aesthetically pleasing, and the English was excellent. In fact I think it’s the most informative of all the museums I’ve been to as most of the Japanese information was well translated. Further more whilst there is a lot of stuff for children there is also a lot of extra information available if you want to delve deeper, and that is also translated.

 

Some of the displays themselves were really impressive in their ability to convey their message. I loved all the Rube Goldburg machines that illustrated things like the flow of carbon or the changing of the ages of earth. Besides these some other displays that stuck in my mind was the genomic harp, a series of light panels representing the 23 chromosomes of the human body. When you pressed a button corresponding to a particular trait lights would flash showing the corresponding genes positions on the chromosomes, very cool.

In between the 5^th and 3^rd floor is a giant suspended, revolving sphere, called Tsunagari. Onto it is projected a map of the world that can be changed to display maps colour coded for various different global trends. Alongside this is a walkway that is lined with images of all the Astronauts who have ever been sent to space, ordered by the year they were up there. Have you ever heard of Valentina Tereshkova? I know I hadn’t but she was the first woman in space, way back in 1963.

 

The third floor is a little less based on hard science but it is nonetheless interesting. This area is called “Create Your Future” and is focused on where we are headed in the next century. My favorite area, besides the robots because who doesn’t love robots,  was “The drive force of innovation”, a display devoted to where ideas come from. There is a large mural displaying some of the best human inventions from ancient times to the present day as well as area exploring the different ways in which we come up with new ideas. Mixed in there are also some amazingly inspiring quotes about the human mind.

There is much more I could talk about as this place really is the best museum I’ve been to in the country easily. I could feel the pride for Japan’s scientific frontiers without and of that creepy nationalism I got in the natural history museum. It was very cool and I was even treated to a dancing robot display before I left to meet up with my parents.

So out of Odaiba and off to Roppongi. Unusually I was bang on time and I met up with my Mum and Dad without any problems. I think being able to be in touch constantly this time around really helped a lot, my lesson had been learned from 2 years ago.

The plan for the evening was to check out the Mori art gallery near the top of the Roppongi hills tower complex. The complex is massive and the art gallery on the 50 something floor is equally expansive. The reason for us going there was an exhibition of works by Alphonse Mucha, of whom my dad is a big fan. I’ll not pretend to be particularly knowledgeable on Art Nouveau but Muscha is one of the big names so I’ve at least some of his work before. I’m not going to embarrass myself by trying to play art critic so I’ll just say I enjoyed the exhibit.

 

Afterwards we went up to the sky deck for some very spectacular views over Tokyo. Up is always better if you want to get a good impression of this city. What amazed me is the diversity of architecture across Tokyo. Sure it is mostly a concrete jungle but every now and then you see some wonderful curves to contrast those hard angles and some lush green to offset the dull greys.

For my final day in Tokyo I wanted to visit a friend out in Tsukuba, I think travelling to visit friends is something I will make more of a habit of when I return to the UK it’s such a rewarding pastime, but first there was one place I’d been longing to visit for quite some time.

It is no shock, I’m sure, to learn that I have a supreme fondness of the written word in any language. I’ve spent much time over the years wandering aimlessly through libraries and second hand book stores so when I heard there was a place in Tokyo where there were a ridiculous number clustered close together, I had to go.

Jinboucho (神保町) in Chiyoda sits neatly in between several of the major Tokyo universities and for this reason many of the big Japanese publishing houses set up shop nearby. Now we all know that your average student is pretty strapped for cash and so I’m sure it’s not surprise to learn this place has become known as “Book town” due to the approximately 150 used bookstores that line it’s main high street.

 

There really are books of all kinds here. Reference books, magazine stores, antiques, battered old novels, you name and you can probably find it in Jinboucho. Many of the shops have so many volumes in stock that they quite literally spill out into the streets, with boxes and shelves strewn willy nilly. It is a bit of a far cry from the usual pristine order of many Japanese establishments and I’ll be frank it was a welcome change.

I could have lost myself there in the musky smell of ancient tomes for over a decade but sadly I did have other things to do. Now knowing this place was home to a lot of th old Japanese publishers I wanted to check out some Ukio –e (Japanese wood block painting) prints for my parents. The best place for this is undoubtedly Ohya Shobo, one of the oldest stores in Jimbocho. The place is lined wall to wall with prints and originals, as well as some very old maps and books dating back to the 18^th century. I think I could have emptied my bank in that shop but instead I settled on a couple of copies for my parents. I think I’ll go back to get a few more before I leave.

 

After that I set out on a separate mission. This time I intended to find some books of old Japanese fairy stories (In Japanese of course). Not really being able to read too much kanji I was a little bit handicapped but I did eventually come across something and I’m currently reading it for practice, and personal interest of course. I do love a good folk tale and these are all centered around a particular area in northern Japan called Kurobe, home, besides all the crazy creatures in the stories of course, the world headquarters of zipper producers YKK apparently.

I eventually had to tear my self away and go visit my friend, my backpack was starting to get a bit heavy and if I didn’t leave soon I was going to have spent all of my money for sure. That being said on the way out I did make one final purchase. I came across a bookstore selling English books very cheap and picked up a copy of the Han Solo adventures, once a star wars geek always a star wars geek.

Well that about does it for my Tokyo adventures. I still need to write up some stuff about Okinawa so have that too look forward to, then hopefully once I have my paper and Japanese language proficiency test (eep) done and dusted I’ll hopefully be off on more adventures.

 

Mata ne.