Don’t you love those moments when things
just seem to come together. Anyone who has been following me for a bit will no
doubt have noticed that things haven’t exactly been going my way of late. Well
that has changed in the past couple of days. Suddenly my proteins expressing
exceptionally well. I fixed the piece of equipment I broke and whilst writing
my 2nd year report (a daunter at 25 pages) I’ve had a bit of an
epiphany regarding my PhD direction.
It’s remembering days like this that get me
through all of the other rubbish. It’s easy to get into a spiral when things go
wrong. They say that bad things always come in 3s, or 4s in oriental culture as
that's the number associated with bad luck. I think I’ve had a bit more than
three but my luck has turned, maybe it’s thanks to the Korean shaman treatment
from one of my colleagues (link). I have been working stupid hours again
recently but when things are going well it’s easy to throw yourself at it.
Capitalizing on my uplift I tried to make
the most of the past weekend before my free time evaporates once more. First
stop was into my local city, Himeji, for the Yukata matsuri (浴衣祭り). Now from an outsiders point of view this may seem like an excuse for
pretty girls to dress up in pretty outfits and wander the streets gorging on
food from the various yatai’s dotted about the place but in fact...nah that’d
be a lie that's exactly what it’s about.
Many of Japan’s numerous festivals are deeply
rooted in history and intertwined with the Shinto religion. This is not one of
them. Well sort of. The festival commemorates the moving of the Osakabe shrine
from within the castle grounds to downtown Himeji. This made the shrine
available for all the people to worship at.
The movement was commemorated with a festival.
Normally people would have to wear their formal (and expensive) kimono’s to
such an event, however due to the suddenness of the ceremony many did not have
the time or money to make such items of clothing. The feudal lord at the time
permitted them to wear their less formal Yukata and it has remained that way
for the past 260 years. Of course this isn’t well known and what most people
think of is the abundant street vendors, I think it has the most out of every
festival in the Kansai area.
Well it was certainly interesting. Besides the
usual Japanese festival fare there were many other foods and games on offer,
some I’d not heard of before. Sadly I had other plans later on that day so I
had to rush off. I doubt I’ll get to it next year but to be honest it was
ridonkulesly crowded and there wasn’t much going on besides the street vendors.
I hadn’t really thought about where I was
staying that night so I headed back to Umeda to scout out somewhere. I
remembered being here last time and seeing a very cheap night deal at one of
the mangakisa’s (internet café’s) that seemed as good a place as any, though not before netting my first ever win on a UFO catcher.
Internet café’s in Japan are something else.
Besides renting sitting space and a computer you also get access to a library
of comics, movies and all you can drink soft drinks and coffee. They are almost
always open 24hrs and I think they do the most business between the hours of 3am
to 8am. A night pack gets you a reclining chair and a blanket to get some
shut-eye for about 1100yen. Or you could just be like me and stay up all night
watching films and dossing around on the Internet.
The following day I set off for Kyoto. I’ve
said it many times before. I love this place. It has none of the hustle and
bustle of Tokyo, nor the Concrete Jungle feel of Osaka. Well it is massively
steeped in history with a ridiculous number of world heritage sites so not so
surprising.
My friends are currently on a yearlong tour of
southern asia from their honeymoon and they were looking incredible. It was so
nice to see them looking so happy and healthy. I basically had no plans for the
day as I figured they had plenty of things they wanted to do. I was right
fortunately.
First on the list was to try our hand at 弓道、Japanese archery. The “shooting range” was
absolutely tiny, a dinky little shop tucked away behind the bushes in northern
Gion with only three targets. It was very interesting however, considerably
different to western archery.
For a start the bows (called yumi) are like 2
metres tall, it was bigger than me at any rate. Secondly the grip is about two
thirds of the way down the shaft, compared to being in the middle in the west.
This makes holding the bow a little clumsy at first as the weighting takes a
bit of getting used to. Finally the method for drawing is very different. The
string is drawn with the thumb whilst the arrow rests on the index finger.
We were ushered inside by a wonderful Ojisan
who seemed very happy to have oversees customers. Small though the place was he
spoke exceptionally good (albeit very specific to his purpose) English so I’m
guessing he gets a fair few people passing through. After a quick demo and some
patchwork instruction we were sat down on the cushions and firing away. It was
pretty reasonable, 10 arrows for 800yen and hopefully I’ll go back given the
chance. I even managed to hit the target with my final shot.
Finished up we did a bit of temple hopping
before lunch. I can’t remember which ones, there are like 1000 in Kyoto, but I
do remember the gardens of the second being particularily amazing. There were
also some incredible trees, old and oddly shaped, inside. It got us talking
about how amazing it is that in Japan even in this day and age they have a
reverence for nature. In the UK we’d just level it, here they work around it,
even in the major cities.
For lunch we hit a famous Okonomiyaki place in
central Gion. The front of the store has a statue depicting a little boy having
his trousers yanked down. That is nothing however compared to the menu. Each
table has a large European style menu book and when opened it reveals...a giant
picture of an okonomiyaki.
Having only one thing on the menu is pretty
amusing when the name of the food translates literally as “your grilled
preference.” Tasty all the same and very different again to Osakan and
Hiroshima style. I do love all the quirky little regional differences in dishes
around Japan.
We had a great chat over lunch about our
travels so far. It is amazing how much just seeing a little bit of the world
changes your out look on life. I could see the changes in my friends and it
helped me see the changes in myself. Sometimes I don’t realise it and I think
it’ll really hit home when I get back.
One thing I think it has done for me is made
me more mindful of all the little things around me. When everything is so
different, when everything is outside of you comfort zone, it all stands out.
I’d like to take that back with me. All three of us agreed that spending so
much time away from home has made us realise how little of our own country
we’ve really seen. I think travelling is any time spent outside of the known.
Any little venture into the unknown is a journey and we take them everyday.
I’ve not been sleeping much again recently but
insomnia does make for wonderful introspective time and so I’ve been doing a
fair bit. I need to travel more, that much is true. Even though my course has
less than a year left I’m not sure if I’m ready to come back home just yet. I
miss my friends and family sure, but how will life feel when everyday is just
that bit more normal. Perhaps normal is just a perception; time is just what we
make it maybe? Who knows but I think there are more places left for me to look
to really find out the answer.
長いだけど、継続的な関心をしていただきありがとうございます
Mata nee.