Harrowing Hiroshima He

Day 5 and we were up bright and early for what I hoped would be a very fun and fascinating trip to the world famous city of Hiroshima. I don’t think I need to tell you why it’s famous, so I won’t. Again I was very excited about this trip, not only because of where we were going but also because it would mark my first ever trip by Shinkansen.

I’d looked up all the train details, how we would get to the various sites and so on. After yesterday I think in fact I was over prepared. Life of course always likes to throw obstacles in your way. I arrived at Umeda to meet my mum alone, it turned out my Dad had lost his credit card and needed to go back to the hotel. She told me to go on ahead as I needed to buy a ticket and if they didn’t show up on time just to leave.

I went to Shin-Osaka alone but there was no way I was heading all the way out to Hiroshima by myself. The parentals arrived just after the Sakura (the train I had intended for us to catch) had left. Set back number one. I asked a nearby attendant about trains, we could apparently take another train in another half an hour so no problem.

Dad however was still, understandably, in a foul mood. His card hadn’t shown up and so he deemed the day was ‘not right’ and refused to come with us. Reluctantly mum and myself accepted this, though the journey would be a bit tainted without dad. He had after all really been looking forward to going to Hiroshima.

Not long after we had alighted and sat down my mum got a text. Turns out at the last minute Dad had changed his mind and got on the train.　“うれしなー” I was pretty glad, pain though he is it just wouldn’t have been the same. The next problem was not far away however. We had boarded the Kodama Shinkansen, which it turns out stops at every station. So rather than taking 1 and a half hours the trip took over 3.

Still although we were down about 2 hours we carried on with our initial plan. First up we were off to Miyajima Island to the south west of Hiroshima. There was plenty to see up there but my main goal was to check out the floating tori gates. Basically these giant Shinto gates are built into the Bay of Miyajima Island and when the tide is high enough they appear to be floating.

 

To get there we had a short, but nonetheless enjoyable ferry ride. We were all very grateful of the nice sea breeze, which provided a break from the relentless heat of Japan’s summer. The views were also great and we got a nice view of the gates from the sea.

Arriving on the island it was apparently only a 10-minute walk to the gate. However the streets were lined with souvenir shops and restaurants and other interesting things, it seemed to take a lot longer. I bought some “momiji” a kind of maple leaf shaped manju as a gift for Yuko. Alongside this was the constant distraction of deer. They were everywhere and very unabashed by the presence of humans. I guess no one on the Island really eats venison.

 

The shrine itself cost money to enter and after our escapades in Kyoto we’d had our fill of shrines. I had to wade out through the sea to get up close though. I asked someone nicely to take a picture for me though it was a little difficult to get the angle right.

With Miyajima ticked off my list we departed in the direction of Hiroshima’s A-bomb dome and memorial Peace Park. This was not before picking up a sea eel steamed bun, they are apparently only available at Miyajima so I couldn’t really pass up that opportunity. It was very tasty though a bit more bun than filling I think.

 

As aside note due to the Jet-lag and heat my parents appetites were all over the place which sadly triggered some bad habits in myself. As such we very rarely ate and I believe this was at the root of a lot of our narkyness and unpredictable energy levels. Sorry guys for letting some of my old habits get the better of me, it’s much less of an issue than it was but I think travelling just gave me opportunity to make excuses. My mums advice to just be selfish is something I need to pay heed to next time.

Anyway ravings aside we took a pleasant, if a bit long, tram ride back towards central Hiroshima. In the trams defense it was very cool on what was an incredibly hot day and much more pleasant than seeing Hiroshima by foot. I had steeled myself a bit for this leg of our visit to Hiroshima, I knew it would be intense but I was still to be shocked.

The A-bomb dome was one of the few concrete structures n Hiroshima at the time of the bombing and is one of the few structures that remained partially intact following the explosion. What I found morosely interesting is that you can actually judge the relative position of the bomb by the areas of the dome that are most devastated. This site marks the entrance to the expansive memorial park and is maintained, as a reminder of the atrocity humanity is capable of.

 

Of the many memorials in the park the one that sticks in my mind most strongly is the Children’s peace monument. This is a dedication to all the children that lost their lives due to the Atomic bomb and it’s after effects. What makes it exceptional to me is that in the display surrounding it are thousands of origami cranes. It is said that if you can make 1000 cranes your wish will be granted. Children from all over the world send in their cranes to wish for peace, incredible. It is also a tribute to Sadako, a young girl whom contracted Leukemia following the bombing and died several years later. On her deathbed she folded canes, trying to reach 1000, and wishing for peace.

The park is brimming with monuments and I don’t think my mere words could do them justice, so I won’t even begin to try. We eventually arrived at the main event as it where, the Hiroshima memorial peace museum. This costs only 50yen to enter and I can assure you it is the best 50yen that you will ever spend.

As always with Japanese museums and galleries the economy of space and layout are fantastic. The only thing I can really criticize is that the positioning and size of English text is usually very difficult, at least for me, to read. Then again it’s not an English speaking country so why should I expect English to be in the prime position.

That aside the museum is brilliant, guiding you through the history of Hiroshima, through the events that lead to its bombing, the even itself and finally what is and should be happening now. It was quite harrowing at times. Some exhibits that hit home really hard for me where the pre and post bomb models of Hiroshima and the many displays relating to “Pika”.

 

Pika was the name the Japanese people gave to the sickness caused by cellular damage inflicted by irradiation. This includes not only the immediate radiation sickness that took so many lives, but also the long term illness, such as leukemia and other cancers, that took yet more lives so many years after the event. Those effected where known as “被爆者” literally meaning explosion effected people.

These hibakusha were truly inspirational, many of them dedicating their lives to furthering the knowledge of treatment of radiation sickness and cancers. Many gather at Hiroshima year after to share their stories of the event and ensure that generations continue to be informed. The self-sacrifice of many hibakusha is a stalwart reminder of the self-sacrifice and unitary nature of Japanese society.

Rounding of the exhibits are a series of paintings drawn by survivors of the event to reflect their feelings at the time. Again I don’t need to describe these they speak for themselves. If you are ever in Japan you can do no wrong by visiting the memorial museum. I spent a good 3 hours there and by no means did I see everything.

In fact I was in there so long that auld lang syne began to play, the Japanese signal for “get the hell out of here”. I met up with the rents downstairs who where not too pleased at once again having to wait for me. Since It was approaching dinnertime I suggested we head out to Okonomimura, a quarter in Hiroshima dedicated to Okonomiyaki.

It would be more accurate to say Hiroshimayaki actually as it is very different to Okonomiyaki in Osaka. Either way it wasn’t too far to walk but on arriving most places were looking pretty full and my Dad was developing a face like a wet fish. I can read the signs he was tired, stressed and desperate not to miss the train.

Gutted not to try Hiroshimayaki but happier to have a less bemused dad we boarded the Tram back to the JR station. This time we got the right Shinkansen, the Hikari, and were back in Osaka by about 9pm. From Umeda we went our separate ways. Thoroughly exhausted from another long day we decided tomorrow we would tak it easy in preparation for the few days in Tokyo. I grabbed some takoyaki on my way back to J-hoppers before turning in early.

Mata ne Minna (Once again at least 50% of the credit for photies goes to that ace photographer Barry Jones).